I have learned (more or less) how to use the Atavist system to build online books - and I have made you all a book of scone recipes. It's like thirty blog posts rolled into one (thank me later). I've got another one in the works, this time about beverages. . . which can become a book of cocktails just by applying a little vodka. It's like magic. In the meantime, wholesome scones:
These are wonderful with a latte, a cappuccino, a hot chocolate - any indulgent warm beverage. Admittedly, summer isn't the traditional time to focus on hot chocolate. It was December when I first started writing up this recipe, but then I accidentally erased it twice and got frustrated and quit. So I better post this fast before it happens again.
Now I'm craving a fancy coffee. I guess that's a thing any time of year.
1 cup milk
4 Tb unsalted butter
2 Tb water
1 Tb yeast
¼ cup white sugar
2 tsp kosher salt
2 cups bread flour (it really tastes better if you use bread flour)
1 cup all-purpose flour
Raisins - heaping ½ cup
Cinnamon - 1 - 2 Tb
Sugar - ½ - ¾ cups
3 Tb butter
Raw Sugar / Coarse Sugar
In a small saucepan, warm milk, butter and water, stirring until the butter melts.
When the liquid is warm but not hot, pour into a large mixing bowl, stir in yeast and sugar until dissolved. Let sit 10 minutes.
Stir in remaining dry ingredients until you have a cohesive dough. Turn onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Put in an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise until double in bulk (about an hour).
On a floured surface, roll the risen dough into a rectangle about 12” x 16”, around ½” thick. Sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar until thoroughly covered, leaving an inch wide strip free on the furthest short side. Sprinkle with raisins. Roll up into a log 12” long.
Cut into eight even pieces. Then, cut those pieces almost in half but leave a hinge of dough on the bottom. Fold open like a book. (If you want smaller rolls, make the rectangle wider so you can cut into more pieces here).
Place scrolls on a greased baking sheet, preferably with a rim (or you’ll end up with butter on the bottom of your oven). Let rise, covered, about 45 minutes. After 30 preheat an oven to 375-degrees.
Melt the 3 Tb butter and brush on top of scrolls. Sprinkle with sugar.
Bake about 15 minutes, until very lightly brown. Eat warm.
A recipe for tea cookies. I’m calling them tea cookies because they came about after I was asked to reverse engineer cookies from a lost recipe for cookies that were described as “perfect with Darjeeling tea”.
I had a little more info than just that description - there was one of these cookies left in existence to eat. I ate it slowly.
The recipe below is not exactly the same. I like it better than the original cookies . . . but then it wasn’t my friend who invented the original cookies decades ago, so I didn’t have a sentimental attachment. Thus freeing me to add butter and a flour with gluten in it. On the other hand, I definitely would never have come up with these without the original inspiration - and they’re quite tasty with a cup of Darjeeling tea.
- 1.5 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup white rice flour
- 2 teaspoons baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/3 cup poppy seeds
- 2 tsp anise seeds
- 1 Tb white sesame seeds
- zest of 1 orange
- 1 stick butter at room temperature
- 1/2 cup tahini
- 1/2 cup white sugar
- 1 large egg
- 3 Tb honey
- 2 Tb white wine (or water)
In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients except for the sugar. In a large bowl, beat butter, tahini and sugar together until fluffy, about three minutes on medium. Add egg, honey, wine or water and beat until combined. Add dry ingredients and beat with a wooden spoon just combined.
The dough should not be wet, but it also shouldn't be dry and crumbly, add a few tablespoons of water if needed.
Press dough into a thick disc and cover with plastic wrap. Chill in fridge for at least two hours or overnight.
Bring dough out to warm slightly 15 minutes before baking it.
Preheat oven to 300-degrees. Roll dough dough out to 1/4 inch thick. Cut with a small biscuit cutter into little circles and transfer to a cookie sheet, repeating until it's all used up.
Cook until starting to brown (about 12 minutes). Turn the oven to 200 degrees and cook another 10 minutes.
Cool on a cookie rack.
When I was in Barbados, I promised an Irishman with whom we were drinking Mount Gay rum that I would report back to the people of Vermont that Irish food is underappreciated. I tell you now: Irish food is underappreciated. I have never myself been to Ireland, nor had Irish food prepared by an actual Irish person, I’m taking his word for it. I am however the daughter of a man whose family is from Maine by way of Slovakia, so I have a soft spot in my heart for cuisines that can get creative with potatoes and cabbage. Let’s take a walk down the lane of interesting Irish or “Irish” food ideas. I am not saying this is an authentic study of Irish food culture, I am saying that when you take a premise like “Irish food is awesome” and search around for corroborating evidence, you turn up tasty dishes:
The first stop is going to be Slow Food. If I had much seaweed / foraging area along the Irish coast at my disposal, I would make side dishes from the Slow Food Ireland site (particularly the rhubarb & bladderwrack scones) or from this seaweed UK list. If you don’t think that seaweed is a super-awesome way to open a claim of delicious cuisine, you can listen to this Gastropod episode and get excited.
We should agree that in the “presence of an ocean” food contest, Ireland wins (at least over Vermont). What about use of potatoes?
The Daily Spud Blog - If you ever need a recipe for potatoes (ever, in any context) I’ve known for a while now that the Daily Spud Blog is the place to go.
Potato Fudge - The classic potato candy is, of course, the Maine Needham - but potato fudge is easier to make. This recipe calls for mashed potatoes, although really you need to rice them (or push them through a colander with a rubber spatula). I like my fudge with minced candied orange peel and walnuts.
Boxty - not only a good Scrabble work if you need something short yet impressive, it’s sort of a potato pancake, but more pancake-y than a latke - sometimes called a potato scone. Boxty can go with an Irish breakfast. The people of the United Kingdom know the meaning of “full breakfast”. It’s the sort of thing that Vice’s food section would write about and lo and behold they did in this 2016 article on an Irish pub breakfast.
I’m not going to concede that Ireland does potatoes better than Slovakia, and it’s hard to think about potatoes and not give credit to Quebec and Poutine, and those folks in Maine with the Needhams. . . not to mention, you know, Peru - which gave us all potatoes to begin with (cue another Gastropod podcast - on potatoes). Maybe it’s not a contest, maybe we can simply stand with the people of Ireland in insisting that there’s nothing amiss in building a menu on the strength of potato.
What about another international food for which everyone seems to have a different answer - ways to use up sort of stale bread. It’s an important facet of every cuisine that serves bread. You might think that New Orleans is an obvious winner with its bread pudding enthusiasm. Okay, maybe they are, but let me suggest an alternative: the humble gur cake
Gur Cake This dessert combines tea-soaked bread with dried fruit and bakes it in pastry, and has plenty of room for variation. Like using dried pears and some blackberry jam in with the concoction. Or throwing some orange zest and ginger root in when brewing the tea, amping up the spices a smidge, and topping the final pastry with drizzles of basic icing. Maple syrup is obviously a good addition. So is whiskey. I use the Milk Street pie crust designed not to shrink for my top and bottom in this recipe.
While you’re trying stale bread desserts that aren’t bread pudding, check out this variation on Egyptian Palace Bread - not Irish, but I’ve been craving it recently.
And of course we still haven’t touched the lens through which more cuisines ought to be considered - cooking with beer. I’m surprised that Guinness doesn’t have more recipes on their site, but what they do have includes lobster. Perhaps they don’t need to expand the official suggestions because so many others have compiled compelling unofficial recipes lists, like these from Real Simple (it starts with onion rings & stout gravy), BuzzFeed (including beeramisu), and the BBC (which reminded me that I like rarebit). My Guinness-braised chicken recipe is linked here.
Plus a few little tidbit food items that I enjoy:
Whiskey Cured Salmon - okay, okay, this recipe is for sazerac salmon, but Irish whiskey also works.
Speaking of Irish whiskey, I’m pretty sure Paddy is getting hip . . .and if it isn’t, it should. I’ve appreciated this whiskey ever since I went to a wine tasting and asked the wine shop’s owner if he had anything a bit stronger, and he pulled a bottle of Paddy from the bottom drawer of his desk and poured me a wineglassful.
Phew. Now. There's a start. Consider all the additional specialties you could be introduced to by an actual Irish person, or even someone who had once visited Ireland! I’ve done the best I can by this cuisine and there’s an Irishman somewhere out there living in Haiti and occasionally visiting Barbados who owes me another drink.
When I first moved back to Vermont for grad school I was way (waaaaayyyy) into the local foods movement. I'm also on the hyper logical side of the Myers Briggs line, so as part of being an enthusiastic young activist, I had a Powerpoint presentation I carted around whenever I appeared on a local foods panel that showed all manner of agricultural disasters - spilled manure lagoons, crop dusting on windy days, disturbing items from PETA - with the headline "All of These Are Local to Someone." Especially if you're using state boundaries to define "local"*. I'm a stickler regarding lazy language.
My Powerpoint presentation never really rallied anyone else to demand accurate word choice, but let's agree that food being "local" does have real meaning, and that meaning isn't as all inclusive as we often pretend. And don't get me started on the serious abuse the word "fresh" receives of late**. It's usually in a team with local. I don't need to go into the pain this causes me because I wrote a short article about it for Local Banquet a few years ago "What Is Fresh?" Now I'm back to a similar soap box in an article on the Brattleboro-based "VT Dinners". No it is not okay to use "convenience food" or "frozen meals" as a stand in for "lousy food you should never feed your family." I got very harrumphy about this during the comment session at a recent Farm to Plate gathering. I ran a takeout restaurant, so you probably already know my feeling on that issue. Now you can see that opinion restated and be introduced to a fun new business from the southern part of the state at the same time. . . have a read:
From the Spring 2017 Issue of Local Banquet: Set the Table With TV Dinners
*Happy cows are NOT all from California, and heaven knows California cows are NOT all happy cows.
**Apologies to my current employer The Vermont Fresh Network. I won't demand a name change, I promise.